THE LAST VAQUERO ”The Real Cowboy – by One of Them”
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The Spanish Vaquero herded his cattle from horseback on well-trained Iberian horses, wearing a black sombrero. We did an interview with Alfonso Lopez de Carrizosa, the son of the Count of Jerez and a full blooded genuine vaquero, to get an introduction first-hand.
Text by THERESE ALHAUG photography by LENA SAUGEN
The Vaquero, the First Spanish Cowboy, was widely known for his equestrian skills. Skills that are the results of the colonization of the 16th century that spread over large parts of South America. Firstly to Mexico, then Texas, before it took the way to California at the beginning of the 19th century. The Vaqueros brought both cattle and horses to the new continent. They became the American Cowboy’s masters of learning. Or like the author Kendall Nelsom said in his book “A Tribute to the Working Cowboy”: “If you are a cowboy in the USA today, your knowledge descends from the Vaquero”.
America was in time supplied with millions of “longhorn” cattle, and the need for cattle herdsmen increased subsequently. The green Americans soon adopted the Vaqueros equestrian skills thanks to the Spaniard’s well-trained horses. The horses were extremely responsive and soft-footed, but also very manageable.
So, what was the vaqueros’ secret? And what training techniques did they use? One thing was at least for sure. Their knowledge had descended to them over several generations. They were born with horses in their blood.
Alfonso Lopez de Carrizosa is a fifth generation vaquero and runs the riding stables Alcantara Ecuestre, a few kilometres outside the historical Jerez de la Frontera in the south of Spain – the homeland of the Andalusian horse and the sherry. Here in the countryside, cattle and horses graze in the never-ending steppe landscape between crops of wheat, cotton, sunflower and grapevines. This old family farm is also the starting point for the breeding of the Andalusian horse. We followed Alfonso through two days to learn more about the Vaqueros and their inherited equestrian knowledge.
We have driven for some minutes on the bumpy dirt road that leads us to one of Alfonso’s properties. The sun and heat rule this dry landscape. Even in September. Through a massive dust cloud we catch a glimpse of the old stables. Alfonso stands in the driveway to the old horse farm. His tanned face is all smiles as he wishes us welcome. Right behind him two wagging dogs follow. Rocio, Alfonso’s wife, bids us welcome with a glass of their own produced sherry. It’s delicious. They show us the stables, where around ten stallions and geldings look brightly at us through the bars. The gentle Spaniard is about to make one of the young horses ready for today’s training. The young gelding stands loose in the stables with a lowered head, while its tail swishes annoying flies away.
̶ The horses feel you. They notice at once if you are friendly or not. And, if some bad people show, it occurs that the horses give me signs about that as well. One has to be relaxed around horses. I’m never as relaxed as when I’m riding. Then I forget all problems. That’s also the only way to go if one is to communicate properly with horses.
The horses feel you. They notice at once if you are friendly or not.
Alfonso Lopez de Carrizosa
We gather round the outdoor arena while Alfonso demonstrates gallop sideways and some pirouettes.
– It’s essential to be able to move the horse off the cattle quickly, he explains. He increases the tempo on the long side. Stops short to a halt, apparent without touching the horse’s mouth. A spray of sand dusts around the horse’s legs. Then a big smile.
– Just lean a bit back and the horse will stop by himself. There’s no need for the reins.
Forward then, in canter. With one hand on the reins and the other close to his chest, he demonstrates Doma Vaquero. A discipline of riding and way of competing that originate from the Vaqueros’ work with cattle. Alfonso has several national championship titles in this discipline. As a 12-year-old he won his first competition. Doma Vaquero tests the rider’s ability to control and manoeuvre the horse with minimal aids. The goal is to demonstrate the horse’s obedience, reaction pattern and agility.
– The harder you touch the reins, the harder the horse gets in his mouth. But at the same time, the less you touch the reins, the lighter the horse is in his mouth.
Many are filled with enthusiasm by the training methods of the Vaqueros. Several have tried to find the secret behind these responsive horses. The Vaqueros start the riding when the horses are three – four years old, but they don’t begin the real physical training before they are five or six. During these preparatory years, it’s time to make the horses attentive for pressure and signals. They start the training of the horse by using a simple rope halter. The horse is to learn to give way to pressure against the neck and the ridge of the nose. Afterwards they use a mild hackamore (a head collar without a bit), which consists of a somewhat stronger noseband, (like a cavesson). Consequently as the horse follows, the noseband is changed to a milder type, at the same time as they get the horse accustomed to carry a light bit. In the beginning the horse is to carry the bit in the mouth without the reins fastened in it. At the same time the horse is corrected by a second set of reins from the noseband. Two pairs of reins give the rider a possibility to gradually let the horse get used to a light pressure in the mouth. Patience and care are virtues. It has been told the old Vaqueros fastened a sewing thread between the bit and the rein to test both the horses’ and their own skills. If the thread snapped, the pressure was too hard. The results are horses, which can be adjusted with the least of pressure on the nose or the bit.
Alfonso walks some rounds around the property with loose reins, saddles off. Again the young gelding stands obedient and waiting, left to himself, while Alonzo leaves for the stables. The horse has the opportunity to choose but he remains standing. A trip to the wash box is next. The head and ears are washed as well. The young horse seems to enjoy every drop of water. He closes his eyes and is loose in his jaw.
– A little brush of the teeth, Alonso jokes. One of the stallions is also ready for a shower and is left side by side with the gelding. The stud closes his eyes and lowers his neck. With one hindleg resting the two remain standing and are enjoying the shadow of the olive tree, side by side. Alfonso invites us to the sitting arrangement in the shade from the sun.
Not only did the Vaqueros master the equestrian art, but there were also the Vaqueros thorough knowledge of horse management that formed the foundation for what we today has chosen to denote as Natural Horsemanship, Alfonso explains:
– The Iberian horse is known for its sensitivity and intelligence. With a huge heart. It was managed accordingly. The term “horse whisperer” was originally the name for the cowboys who practised the old Vaqueros’ methods and philosophy. The newer tendency of horsemanship, the so-called natural horsemanship, still has most of its influence inherited from the Vaqueros’ traditions.
Dry, long summers distinguish the landscape in this part of southern Spain. In a number of generations the cattle herds have been spread out across enormous areas to secure the animals’ sufficiency of feed. As a result the horse became a useful and necessary work tool for the old cattle farmers, who would cover several miles to supervise their cattle herds. The horses had to be athletic, have strong body structure and be agile, brave and manoeuvrable. The herds of cattle were moved and separated and in the encounter with the bulls, good riding skills meant the difference between life and death. Even though the horse is still used in this kind of work, the cattle farmers are fewer than before. The production of meat is costly and the cattle stock is decreasing. – A sad development, says Alfonso.
The Iberian horse is known for its sensitivity and intelligence. With a huge heart. It was managed accordingly.
Alfonso Lopez de Carrizosa
– Earlier there were up to a hundred horses and five hundred cows here. My granddad disposed of some. I remember when I was a boy; I placed a stallion together with the mares, in the hope of getting them bred. My father was not in a very good mood. But, as long as there are cattle, the need for horses is there. There are no substitutes for the horses out there, Alfonso explains. As of today he has a total of hundred horses on the farm and a couple of hundred cows and bulls.
Alfonso breeds his own horses, and he prefers the Lusitano and the Andalusian breeds, crossed with arab horses. Or purebred Lusitanos. Like the black stallion, Impostor, in the stables, that is related to the world’s most famous bullfighting horse, Cagancho.
– The purebred Lusitano has a very good temperament and a strong character. But the mix of Arabian and Lusitano horses give faster and more flexible horses that are better suited for the life out here in the fields. But the times are changing. In the past, I sold 10 horses a year. Nowadays I sell perhaps 5. The financial crisis has had an impact.
The day is waning. Rocio serves tapas and drinks. The sun is descending into a sunset behind the range of hills.
– This is the life I love. The tranquillity and silence. Tomorrow I will show you more.
This is the life I love. The tranquillity and silence
Alfonso Lopez de Carrizosa
Early morning. Another day under the sun. Alfonso is not at rest for a second when he is teaching. He keeps a close eye on the horse with his head tilted to one side.
– Easy, light hands, very good! Pat the horse…pat the horse!! Wonderful!
Piaffe, passage and spanish steps. Then the Vaqueros’ own exercises. Gallop sideways, slowly and quickly, pirouettes the vaquero way, sudden stops and forward again. The Equestrian Centre offers riding lessons in both English showjumping and dressage, in addition to Doma Vaquera.
– I try to teach the little knowledge I have about horses to Spanish and foreign customers. I like it because I can see they develop very quickly.
The gray gelding is attentive and focused. He is a result of Alfonso’s own breeding. The gray, was initially sold, but is back at Alcantara. The horse was blinded in one eye after an injury.
– No reason for it to become sausage, says Alfonso. He loves his horses.
– A good rider is at one with the horse. That’s how it’s supposed to be. You know the difference. When one feels this interaction – yes, then it’s amazing. Don’t get me wrong – I have the deepest respect for everybody who wants to ride, whether they are more or less good. It pleases me that they want to ride. As long as they love it and want it sufficiently. But, there are not that many who know much about horses. You know – the real thing! Only a few master the art of riding. I myself still know a little bit, and I like what I do. I still want to learn, and I learn a lot by watching others.
Only a few master the art of riding. I myself still know a little bit.
Alfonso Lopez de Carrizosa
Alfonso has many role models. One of them is a “bereiter” at the approved riding school in Jerez: “The Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art”. This school also has its source from the family farm and was founded by Alfonso’s parents.
– I never get tired of looking at him. I study what he does. Try to understand how he thinks. He is so sensitive with the horses. Dressage riding is starting to become more popular here in Spain. However, the Equestrian art is the same. Either you do Doma Vaquera, dressage or showjumping. The groundwork is the same. For me the real thing is Doma Vaquera. It’s there, out in the fields that one really gets to test one’s knowledge and the courage of the horse.
Alfonso, himself, has horses in his blood. He was horseback riding daily when he was three years old. Shortly after, he got his first horse as a present.
– My uncle gave me my first horse. I will never forget that. He taught me the most of what I know about horses and riding, and he meant the world to me. He was a big and knowledgeable horseman, but also a fantastic person.
The cowboy uses the horse to work the cattle, while the Vaqueros use the cattle to work the horse.
Alfonso Lopez de Carrizosa
“The cowboy uses the horse to work the cattle, while the Vaqueros use the cattle to work the horse”. This is the way many describe the Vaqueros and what differentiate them from the modern cowboy. The true hard-working Vaqueros are supposed to have been both bow-legged and rigid because of the long hours in the saddle. The cliché that they were on horseback before they were able to walk might not be so far from the truth, according to Alonso.
– The only way to become a good Vaquero is to invest enough hours in the saddle. The herd of cattle has to be divided and moved. Then it’s about manoeuvring the close to 800 kilos heavy cows, or bulls for that matter. The horses have to be manoeuvrable and fast.
– A hot-tempered bull is not something you want to play with, Alonso reports.
On the same afternoon we start a longer ride on his 4000ha large property. We ride kilometres upon kilometres over the pastures. Past enormous herds of cattle and grazing horses. Out here, there are nothing else but ourselves, the horses and the vast landscape. We race the last stretch up to his father’s farm. Alfonso has a childlike mind and a frolic that excites and an easy laughter. A nudge here and a puff there, then first come, first served. We ride up to the playpen of Alfonso: The world’s oldest private bullfighting arena, built here on the family’s property by monks in 1797. At that time, more than four generations ago, the property was the underling of a big monastery. There the Vaqueros tested themselves and their horses’ skills in encounters with the bulls out in the fields. To handle the bull was not just about the rider, but also the horse. The horse had to understand the bull’s language. Alfonso demonstrates. He grabs a stick and shows his Doma Vaquera-artistry. Two retired horses follow curiously from the outside while the sun sets behind the ridge.
The horses opted for the kind of life I wanted. They made me want to be here and work with them, listen to them and teach my knowledge of them to others.
Alfonso Lopez de Carrizosa
Up at the house, the children come running to us. Alfonso is all smiles. The dream of becoming a real Vaquero stands high continuously with the small ones in the family. The children find a red sheet and Alfonso plays joyfully both the bull and the bullfighter in their games. The small ones crowd round him while Alfonso laughs.
– I love children. They have an open mind. We use to arrange a riding camp every summer. The children love it and we love it. Then as many as 15 children are here at the same time, and everybody live at the farm.
After a home tour of the family’s private wine cellar and a taste of the 260 year-old sherry, we turn our noses home-bound. The horses stand calm and waiting on the same spot we left them, under the big broadleaved tree. A little piece of string is all that connects the reins with the small twigs. The darkness closes in, but the horses know their way. In semi-darkness we walk calmly towards home. Alfonso talks about life and about what really matters. He has shown me the best he has: his family, the horses, the 192 hunting dogs and the scenery. He couldn’t imagine another life than this. He has experienced the other life; he worked some years in the city, doing business. But, as he says himself – the horses chose for him.
– The horses opted for the kind of life I wanted. They made me want to be here and work with them, listen to them and teach my knowledge of them to others. The horses are my life, I can’t live without them. They are the most important in my life, yes, of course, except my family.
For Alfonso the horses represent a family legacy. It is inherited knowledge that has survived through more than four generations. They are the connection to his predecessors. Not in the least they hold the memories about his uncle and his mother who loved horses. But they also represent the freedom and his love of the scenery here in Jerez. His life.
– If I have a bad day, I just ride one of the horses and then I feel well again. So simple is that!
Sources:
“The History of and Current Vaqueros” by Rick Lamb
Wikipedia
Alfonso López de Carrizosa
Alfonso, from the count family of Carrizosa, was born into a family that in centuries had resided in the heart of horse breeding in Jerez, and as a matter of fact it was on his farm the breeding of Andalusian horses first started. He worked on his father’s ranch, as a Vaquero; from he was four years of age when he discovered his passion for horses and riding. As a young boy he competed locally in Doma Vaquero-competitions and it was there he met the world champion of that time in Spain, who took him under his wings and continued the
training. He soon won national competitions. Today Alfonso works as a trainer for a chosen clientele in the disciplines dressage and doma Vaquera at his private farm, Alcantara Ecuestre, about 20 minutes outside Jerez de la Frontera.
Instragram: @alcantarajerez
Alcantara Ecuestre
Alcantara Horse Farm is situated in the heart of Andalusia, the horse capital of Spain, and is devoted to fantastic experiences on horse back. The riding facilities consist of dressage arena and a showjumping course, and they offer riding treks in the country district surrounded by bulls, deer, hares, partridges and abounding fields of wheat, cotton, olive trees and sunflowers.
Home page: www.alcantaraecuestre.com
